You can see the max instantaneous speed change (jerk) and acceleration for my extruder are way higher than everything else. My maximum speeds for everything are 120 mm/sec, in PrusaSlicer, I have the movement speed set to 90 mm/sec These two items working together should do well to resolve any retraction or flow issues that arise when trying to print a detailed model at a fast. M906 X1700 Y1700 Z1700 E1100 I30 set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent A great solution to increase flow rates would be to use a specialized high-flow hotend such as the Volcano, with an equally-sized nozzle along with a top-tier extruder such as the Hemera Extruder. Here's the drives section of my config.g, I wonder if maybe it's your acceleration, There's no sense in retracting whatever amount if the printer moves slowly enough that it is still able to ooze out of the hotend before it can reach where it needs to extrude next.
HEMERA RETRACTION SPEED TRIAL
I've found it's somewhat trial and error to find the point where you're using retraction to prevent stringing as well as finding the quickest movement speed possible to also prevent stringing. Try dropping it a little at a time, I wouldn't drop it below 1800 though. Don’t forget that distance is not as important as speed when working with PERG print. Use 3 or 4 mm for direct-drive extruders. You might try lowering the retraction distance and/or speed. Let the speed of the retraction be like 25 mm/s (for direct-drive and Bowden extruders) For retraction distance, use 6 or 7 mm (for Bowden extruders). Our setups with the Capricorn tubes, Hemera, and e3D Hotends are fairly well constrained. People used to do massive retractions because of the perceived play in the bowden setup. This has a number of benefits, primarily reducing the length of filament under compression when being pushed into the melt zone, improving responsiveness. I bet it's too much retraction, there are all kinds of recommendations out there on how much per whatever measurement of the bowden tube. Firstly, Hemera was designed to be compact which allows us to attain a very short distance from drive-wheels to melt-zone. Watch it and see if it jumps forward at all when it should be retracting. It should jump back really quickly when it does the retract. On the side of the Hemera there's an exposed section of the gear, watch it when it retracts.
I'd also be curious if it's skipping steps on the retract because it's too much for it. Is there filament powder on the gears when you took it apart? Maybe the clicking is the gear teeth riding over the imprints it already had made.
I'm wondering if it's too much as in when it retract it's pulling hot filament into the cold section and cooling it causing a temporary jam.
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